Basic T-shirt Variation 3: The Sim T

Here is my version of the peplum T-shirt. It was quite easy to do. Using my basic t-shirt pattern, I traced it on to tracing paper then cut it apart at the waist. I then lengthened the lower half which became the peplum about an inch. On the peplum piece starting from the hem I cut it four times up to the waist seam and evenly spread each piece it to make is semi circular. From there it is just truing the seam line and adding seam allowance and did the same for the back. I was just so into the flow of making the pattern that I did not even think to take pics, maybe next time. 

I like it so much I actually have at least two more planned but I'll finish out this t-shirt lesson before I get to them. Also I think I'm going to draft a facing instead of using the neckband piece, I think it makes the the top look sporty when I want a more casual look, but that is what muslins are for. And with all of this patternmaking and muslins I'm starting to run really low on knits so I think I'll be planning a shopping trip soon and I'll try to take pics there too.

Quick Info:

• Self drafted pattern using my basic T-shirt pattern
• 5 pattern pieces (front bodice, back bodice, sleeve, neckband and peplum)
• Inspired by Simplicity 1539
• Cream and brown polyester knit purchased here in Riyadh
• Hems are made using a stretch stitch on my sewing machine.

Until next time, happy sewing...

Going Off Track

So I'm planning to go off track a little and test out my patternmaking skills on my own, I still plan to make the next the tee which is the Charlotte Top. But right now I really want a this Simplicity top with the peplum, I'm not going to try and do the upper half with the knot detail, just looks too hot for me. So we shall see.

Until next time, happy sewing

Basic T-Shirt Variation 1: Marguerite T

So here is MY version of the Marguerite tee, I like the color blocking idea but wanted something a little different. So after some internet snoop shopping I went with an asymmetrical yoke. I'll keep this post short on words since it has already been delayed long enough. I completed the top before the Eid Holiday but the post was delayed since I had so much going on.

Patterning the front

Marks for matching

Completed pattern 

Completed pattern

Back

Side

Side

Quick Info:

• Self Drafted T-shirt pattern using Design-It-Yourself Clothes
• 5 pattern Pieces two for the color blocked front, then sleeve, back, and neckbinding
• Fabric is a lightweight cotton knit that I bought here in Riyadh
• Hems are sewn using the sewing machine

6 Takes

That's how many muslin it took me to get the best t-shirt pattern I have ever had.

 Muslin 6: I call this one a semi final because I made the neckband too wide but other than this I think I am done. I have already made the changes to my neckband piece so now I am ready to move on to the first variation aka Marguerite t.

Muslin number 1: The neckline was way too high for my liking and both the shoulder length and sleeves too long.

Muslin number 2: Sleeves still too long, shoulder length still too long and forgot to shorten the neck band so after it was attached it stood away from my body.

Muslin number 3: A little be better on all adjustments but still not happy. With each muslin I just adjusted the original pattern never redrafting the pattern. This time I'm going to start a new draft. To help me I studied a few ready made patterns in my collection and retook some of my measurements.

Muslin 4: This time around I decided to completely draft my pattern instead of readjusting the paper pattern especially since it had been so long since I had worked with it. I have a small notebook that I using to keep all of my notes in so I had an idea of all of the changes I needed to make for this pattern. But for some reason I forgot to put in my sleeve depth from the last draft and I also forgot to lower my neckline. And this is the very issue I had with this draft. Also I wanted it a bit longer in the bodice.

Muslin number 5: This one was never meant to be finished, this is one of those " what was I thinking" fabric purchases. I was so hoping that my last muslin was going to be it, but it wasn't and somewhat deflating  when I  realized that I was going to need to redraft the whole pattern again. it. So I redrafted this one again and I was determined to get it right even if I needed to do it three more times. After three drafts in two months I think now I can whip up a t-shirt pattern without even opening the book.

This one so far was the best bodice was but the sleeves needed a bit of fixing. So how I drafted the sleeve cap with too much ease so it made the sleep puff out funny in the back and also the bicep was a bit tighter than I liked. So I was a bit happier since this meant I needed to only redraft the sleeve

New Look 6735: I sewed this one up after muslin number 5, I wanted something to compare my draft to. Looking and comparing a flat pattern is one thing and then its another when it is in 3D form. I was mostly wanting to see the finished sleeve and neckline. When it comes to fit my draft is way better even though this was sewn using my size according to New Look sizing. After comparing I think my sleeve draft is right on point and so is my neckline.

6 Muslins

All three drafts

Until next time, happy sewing...

Basic T and Ideas

I've started on muslin number 4 and I'm a little more optimistic compared to two months ago. I have completely redrafted my pattern and made some significant changes and some not so much. So for now we will have to wait an see what the outcome will be. I will say this is really a learning experience and the more that I do and learn the more confident I feel in making my own patterns.





I have already started thinking about my first variation on the basic t-shirt, a color blocked top. While I think its a nice top I think I want a bit more........ I don't umph I guess.  So here are some of the ideas that I'm floating around.

McCalls 6705

McCall's 6435 now OOP

Until next time, happy sewing...

T-Shirt Restart

So I have finished the first three skirts in Design-It-Yourself Clothes, and now I'm returning  back to  T-shirts the second lesson I guess you can say. Again I have drafted the T-shirt more times than I can remember but not all drafts made it to the muslin stage. The last ones I worked with for a while but still after three muslins I still was not completely happy but I learned a lot. Mostly where and how to measure my body. I was hoping to sign up for Cal's t-shirt drafting class over at Creativebug during their last $9.99 sale but had issues when it came to payment and now it seems to be no longer available. So on my own I guess it will continue to be.

A quick run down of my last attempt, my first muslin the neckline was way too high for my liking and both the shoulder length and sleeves too long.

Muslin number two: sleeves still too long, shoulder length still too long and forgot to shorten the neck band so after it was attached it stood away from my body.

Muslin number three: a little be better on all adjustments but still not happy. With each muslin I just adjusted the original pattern never redrafting the pattern. This time I'm going to start a new draft. To help me I studied a few ready made patterns in my collection and retook some of my measurements.







































These are the three patterns I studied to figure out shoulder length, neckline shape, sleeve length, and armsyce shape. I DID NOT COPY ANYTHING, just to let everyone know right now. So I'm working on a new draft now and hope to have something to show with in the next few days.

Until next time, happy sewing...

Design-It-Yourself Clothes Basic T

First Muslin

A couple of months ago I blogged about wanting to return to patternmaking and I am so glad I did. I'm just enjoying it. I have already drafted the basic skirt again. But this time I started with a sloper draft from Building Patterns and then mixed in DIY Clothes draft to make my basic skirt pattern that fits me a little better. I have already made two muslins and have my final working pattern that I'm pleased with. I'm currently working on my first skirt and hope to be done soon.

Next up was the basic t-shirt pattern, this took a little bit more time to get the results that I'm looking for and its still not quite there but I am going to keep working on it. After drafting the pattern with my measurements using the instructions, I sewed up muslin number 1 the pink black and off white knit. It was quite clear that I over measured on some things. The shoulder length was way too long, the neckline was too high for me and the sleeves and shirt length too long also.

Second Muslin

Muslin number 2: Sleeves still just a tad too long, shoulder length still too and neckline is just right but I forgot to take off the neckline length when making the neckband so the band was the same length and made the neckline stand way from my body.

Third Muslin

 Muslin number 3: Almost there but still not quite. I'm still not happy with the shoulder or sleeve I'll continue to work on that. I'm thinking about adding a center back seam for a better fit. For the most part the length of the sleeves and body are right where I want it.

Muslin number four is going to have a wait a couple of weeks since I want to finish the basic skirt and complete my level 2 garment for YCMI. A post on those coming soon.











Until next time, happy sewing