Basic T-Shirt Variation 1: Marguerite T

So here is MY version of the Marguerite tee, I like the color blocking idea but wanted something a little different. So after some internet snoop shopping I went with an asymmetrical yoke. I'll keep this post short on words since it has already been delayed long enough. I completed the top before the Eid Holiday but the post was delayed since I had so much going on.

Patterning the front

Marks for matching

Completed pattern 

Completed pattern

Back

Side

Side

Quick Info:

• Self Drafted T-shirt pattern using Design-It-Yourself Clothes
• 5 pattern Pieces two for the color blocked front, then sleeve, back, and neckbinding
• Fabric is a lightweight cotton knit that I bought here in Riyadh
• Hems are sewn using the sewing machine

T-Shirt Restart

So I have finished the first three skirts in Design-It-Yourself Clothes, and now I'm returning  back to  T-shirts the second lesson I guess you can say. Again I have drafted the T-shirt more times than I can remember but not all drafts made it to the muslin stage. The last ones I worked with for a while but still after three muslins I still was not completely happy but I learned a lot. Mostly where and how to measure my body. I was hoping to sign up for Cal's t-shirt drafting class over at Creativebug during their last $9.99 sale but had issues when it came to payment and now it seems to be no longer available. So on my own I guess it will continue to be.

A quick run down of my last attempt, my first muslin the neckline was way too high for my liking and both the shoulder length and sleeves too long.

Muslin number two: sleeves still too long, shoulder length still too long and forgot to shorten the neck band so after it was attached it stood away from my body.

Muslin number three: a little be better on all adjustments but still not happy. With each muslin I just adjusted the original pattern never redrafting the pattern. This time I'm going to start a new draft. To help me I studied a few ready made patterns in my collection and retook some of my measurements.







































These are the three patterns I studied to figure out shoulder length, neckline shape, sleeve length, and armsyce shape. I DID NOT COPY ANYTHING, just to let everyone know right now. So I'm working on a new draft now and hope to have something to show with in the next few days.

Until next time, happy sewing...

Basic Skirt Variation 2: Rosie Skirt

 

After my last skirt I was ready to jump on this one hoping it would be a much better experience, and this one did not disappoint. I did have a couple of bumps but nothing like my last skirt. So the second variation on the basic skirt is called the Rosie. 

Description from DIY Clothes "This one's a sturdy little workwear-inspired number with a center front seam, a waistband, big patch pockets, and some sassy little side slits at the hem."

I kept the skirt pretty much the same, instead of shortening it though I kept it the same length and still did the side slits. So I was able to follow most of the directions given in DIY Clothes. I did the patch pockets according to the book's directions, I already had a waistband so that I did not need to draft that. I did not shorten my pattern but I did add a mark to the side seam to let me know where to stop sewing for the side slits. For the button placket I did originally follow Cal's suggestion of no more than 5 inches long but for me that was too short. I was not able to pull the skirt up over my hips with such a small opening. So took out the placket and undid part of the side seam until I was able to get it over my hips. It turns out I needed 7 inches and I had just enough space since my pocket opening starts at that point.

I also kept my welt pocket from the basic skirt pattern.

Sewing up the skirt was pretty much a breeze including the topstitching. But hen it came to the buttonholes that's where I ran into problems as you can see. I used the same needle for the buttonholes that I used for the topstitching, since I was using buttonhole twist for both. This turned out to be a problem, the needle turned out to be too small to handle the thick thread and zigzag stitching together. This gave me a nest of fabric for my first attempt and once I got the thread out it left a very visable mar on the side of my skirt. I'm not going to worry about it too much since I wear my tops out. If it starts to become a problem I may try to add some fusible interfacing to the wrong side to try and strengthen the area a bit.

Quick Info:

• Mid to heavy weight twill 
• Self drafted pattern using Design-It Yourself Clothes
• 5 pattern pieces (front, back, waistband, pocket, button tab)
• A-line skirt with front patch pockets and side button closing
• Double turned hem with side vents

A little side note, the top that is pictured with all of the skirts is BurdaStyle Magazine 02-2009-108, I made it the summer of 2009, never reviewed it (not sure why) but it's one of my favorite t-shirt patterns.

Until next time, happy sewing...

Basic Skirt Variation 1: Laura Skirt

 

This is the second project in DIY Clothes, a variation on the basic skirt. I headed into this one with much enthusiasum, but that quickly died. The patternmaking changes were quite easy to do , so that took me all of one session to do. I followed the insturctions as much as I could but I also incorporated my design change. Instead of a straight maxi skirt with a ruffle on the bottom I went for a hi-low hem., its not too exagerated like a mullet dress but it can be seen from the side. So creating my hem line was the only thing I did different from the book.

For my fabric I used a silver pinstripe suiting I had laying around. It was one of  those"what in the world was I thinking" purchases a few years ago. I did go looking for a more wearable print for myself but could not find anything, so I just went with this one. I did end up being low on fabric but I was able to compromise and cut the front facing with a seam instead of on the fold like it should have been, no biggie there.

Construction time, all is going well until it is time for the ruffle. Little did I know how much this fabric raveled, I only had a 1/2 seam allowance so the gathering stitches are not that far from the edge. I was just praying that I could get all of it gathered before the raveling got to the stitches. This took me a while as a matter of fact it was so nerve wrecking I just would not touch it for few days. In some places it did mange to unravel right up to the stitches but I was able to sew it on without much problem. But that was not the worst of it. After I got the ruffle sewn on I then proceed to finish the seam with my serger, after I was I done I noticed that the bottom was not sitting right. I had sergered and cut part of the skirt with the seam right in the lower center back. I was one of those " pick your mouth up off the floor" moments. I couldn't believe it, at that point I started to just pitch it in trash after what I just went through with the ruffle. But I decided to just push through whatever it was and not give up so easily.

So I pull out Sewing 911 to get and idea of how to fix it and what it gave was almost exactly what I was thinking to do. Just interface the torn section pin together and sew as tiny of a seam as you can similar to a waist dart and press. For my skirt this was a little be more tricker since if I wanted to hide it I had to match the stripes. After about a half hour worth of work I was done. So time to finish my skirt or so I thought.

I had put in a centered zipper in the side seam and I was finishing up the facing when I trimmed the top of the zipper tape to make it sit better under the facing. Just a few more stitches and I done, I pull on the zipper to check and make sure the side seam is even at the top before I finish sewing on the facing at the end and up and off the zipper pull went. It was like a Twilight Zone moment, I couldn't believe that just happened, I just stood there for a few seconds mouth wide open. It took me a minute but  I just sucked it up unpicked the zipper and added an invisible like the DIY Clothes suggested.

I was so glad to be done with this project, it just gave me the blues. Because of what I went through I'm not even sure if its going to see the light of day. Every time I look at it all those memories come flowing back and I just try to get it out of my site. I guess time will tell.

Quick Info:

• Self drafted pattern using Design-It-Yourself Clothes by Cal Patch
• 8 Pattern pieces (front yoke, front yoke facing, back yoke, back yoke facing, skirt front, skirt back, front ruffle, back ruffle)
• Black poly suiting with a silver pinstripe
• Side seam invisible zipper
• Double turned hem 
• Hi-low hem line

Until next time, happy sewing...

Basic Skirt (A-Line)

I have drafted this skirt so many times that I should know it by heart by now but I don't. The first few times was okay but not perfect. So worked on it some more, I eventually got a draft that I was pretty pleased with that I made it a few times but still not perfect. So then I turned to Building Patterns and drafted the skirt sloper and was a bit more pleased with the fit after the first draft. So I decided to mix the two drafts and went from there. It was actually quite easy to do. I use DIY Clothes for the basic outline and Building Patterns for the waist and hip fit this also gave the back a center back seam for a better fit. I only needed to make two muslins and I was done. And let me tell you this is best fitting skirt I have ever had, I can't wait to fill my closet with a bunch of these. I just need to trace off a working copy and put the original away for safe keeping.

I did change a little bit from the book little, the book gives you directions for a rectangular shaped waistband for the basic skirt if you want that option but it doesn't show the skirt with it. Also the basic skirt has front patch pockets which I did not like so I went with back welt pockets instead. To find the best placement for me, I just cut out a a rectangle of paper added tape and when I was finish fitting the muslin I just stuck and restuck the paper on the muslin until I was pleased with its placement and then just transfer onto the paper pattern.

The only thing that needs a bit more work to me is the waistband. I used the instructions from Design-It-Yourself Clothes but its just a rectangular waistband and on me the waistband actually stands away from my body. So now I have to figure out how to draft a shaped waistband. In doing a quick look through of all of my patternmaking books it seems as though only Building Patterns has instructions for this which is not good. I like to look at more than one way at doing something so that I can have and idea of what I'm doing   since I like to experiment sometimes. I guess its going to be online tutorials if I can find any.

Quick Info:

• Self drafted pattern using both Design-It-Yourself Clothes and Building Patterns
• Fabric is a lightweight cotton 
• 3 pattern pieces (front, back and waistband)
• A-line skirt with a non-shaped waistband
• Has a side lapped zipper and hook and eye closing
• Double turned hem

Until next time, happy sewing...