Friday, July 19, 2013

Basic Skirt Variation 1: Laura Skirt

This is the second project in DIY Clothes, a variation on the basic skirt. I headed into this one with much enthusiasum, but that quickly died. The patternmaking changes were quite easy to do , so that took me all of one session to do. I followed the insturctions as much as I could but I also incorporated my design change. Instead of a straight maxi skirt with a ruffle on the bottom I went for a hi-low hem., its not too exagerated like a mullet dress but it can be seen from the side. So creating my hem line was the only thing I did different from the book.

For my fabric I used a silver pinstripe suiting I had laying around. It was one of  those"what in the world was I thinking" purchases a few years ago. I did go looking for a more wearable print for myself but could not find anything, so I just went with this one. I did end up being low on fabric but I was able to compromise and cut the front facing with a seam instead of on the fold like it should have been, no biggie there.

Construction time, all is going well until it is time for the ruffle. Little did I know how much this fabric raveled, I only had a 1/2 seam allowance so the gathering stitches are not that far from the edge. I was just praying that I could get all of it gathered before the raveling got to the stitches. This took me a while as a matter of fact it was so nerve wrecking I just would not touch it for few days. In some places it did mange to unravel right up to the stitches but I was able to sew it on without much problem. But that was not the worst of it. After I got the ruffle sewn on I then proceed to finish the seam with my serger, after I was I done I noticed that the bottom was not sitting right. I had sergered and cut part of the skirt with the seam right in the lower center back. I was one of those " pick your mouth up off the floor" moments. I couldn't believe it, at that point I started to just pitch it in trash after what I just went through with the ruffle. But I decided to just push through whatever it was and not give up so easily.

So I pull out Sewing 911 to get and idea of how to fix it and what it gave was almost exactly what I was thinking to do. Just interface the torn section pin together and sew as tiny of a seam as you can similar to a waist dart and press. For my skirt this was a little be more tricker since if I wanted to hide it I had to match the stripes. After about a half hour worth of work I was done. So time to finish my skirt or so I thought.

I had put in a centered zipper in the side seam and I was finishing up the facing when I trimmed the top of the zipper tape to make it sit better under the facing. Just a few more stitches and I done, I pull on the zipper to check and make sure the side seam is even at the top before I finish sewing on the facing at the end and up and off the zipper pull went. It was like a Twilight Zone moment, I couldn't believe that just happened, I just stood there for a few seconds mouth wide open. It took me a minute but  I just sucked it up unpicked the zipper and added an invisible like the DIY Clothes suggested.

I was so glad to be done with this project, it just gave me the blues. Because of what I went through I'm not even sure if its going to see the light of day. Every time I look at it all those memories come flowing back and I just try to get it out of my site. I guess time will tell.

Quick Info:
  • Self drafted pattern using Design-It-Yourself Clothes by Cal Patch
  • 8 Pattern pieces (front yoke, front yoke facing, back yoke, back yoke facing, skirt front, skirt back, front ruffle, back ruffle)
  • Black poly suiting with a silver pinstripe
  • Side seam invisible zipper
  • Double turned hem 
  • Hi-low hem line

Until next time, happy sewing...


L said...

Oh no! Don't you just hate when that happens? Sergers can be both great and evil - especially when you inadvertently serge a gash right through the garment. The fix you used masks the gash quite well. You can hardly tell it's there and the pinstripes line up nicely.

I've pulled off a few zipper tabs as well! As soon as I cut the zipper at the top, I place a safety pin across the teeth on one side of the tape to prevent me from pulling off the tab.

Wear it at least once!

JuliN said...

I'm sorry to read you had such a difficult time with the making of this skirt. I'm impressed by the wonderful stripe matching you've done, including on the area of the dreaded serger slash. Maybe the negative emotions will go away once you have some distance from the sewing process.

Oh, & I pulled the zipper tab right off my last pair of pants - heading out for work! I sewed the seam closed and headed out the door! Good thing the fabric is a stretch woven.


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