Monday, August 27, 2012

Key Item McCall's 3830 Done

 So I am finally done with my key item for my mini wardrobe. Its a pretty easy and basic skirt to sew up if your not me. I added a lining so that added a few more steps to the process, but it was still easy for the most part. I used Easy Guide To Sewing Linings to help me draft the skirt pattern but then it left me hanging, if you own this book please help me, look at page 77 where it shows you to draft the lining for a skirt with facing. I did exactly as it is done but when it came to sew it up there are no directions at least I could not find them instead it refers you to the quick line method which is on page 80-81 and this you use the full front and full back pattern. Its not that sewing it up was difficult I was mostly confused by the 11/4 inches needed over the facing edge. I mean if your just going to sew it to the facing why not the usual 5/8 inch seam. Okay enough about that. Other than that it went together pretty smoothly.
 Now I have a fitting problem and it seems that none of my sewing books cover it.My side seam swings to the back and I THINK  this is a swayback problem but again I'm not sure none of the 4 fitting books I have cover this they only mention of the side seam swinging forward for a flat derriere , I'm total opposite in Fit For Real People they do mention a swayback in a skirt address it if there is a waistband but nothing about the side seam swinging to the back only pooling again if you have this book I'm referring to page 180. Please help if you can. Only thing I did change to the pattern is add 1 inch length and sewed up a size 16 and it fits fine other than the side seam going back.

 Photographing black is not easy but for the most part it look exactly as it does on the pattern envelop drawing black and long. Here are the pics I took while making it, again if you are following me on instagram then most of these are familiar already.

 Inside back view with partial lining and back vent.
Lining sewn around the back zipper
 Handsewing the hem using directions from Reader's Digest .
 here it is with Simplicity 2345. I plan to make another soon its one of my favorite tops to wear.

 I think the next time once I workout the side seam problem I do a side invisible zip, I like those much better than the back centered zip.
Until Next time happy sewing...


Bri said...

Bravo on getting your skirt done and with the added lining.
I don't have the book your referring so I'm sorry I'm not sure what you're talking about otherwise I would try and help, good luck!

Anonymous said...

Sorry I can't help with the fitting issue. I sometimes get the same problem (seam tending to the back) and haven't worked out why.

The outfit you've made is absolutely gorgeous! I just want to steal the whole thing.

Judy Brannon said...

I know exactly what the problem is. I have it, and I fix it in both patterns and RTW skirts that I purchase. We are shorter in the front, so the simple solution is to dip the front down by whatever amount it is too high. In other words, put on the skirt, stand in front of a mirror, and bend the front's top edge forward, lifting up on the skirt until the side seams are perpendicular to the floor. Use that as your guide for the amount to take off the next time you make it. If that does not make sense, msg. me on facebook "Judy Uplinger Brannon". Been there, done that.

Judy Brannon said...

You and I have the same problem. It is an easy fix, however. The skirt front is too high. Simply fold it down while lifting the skirt until the side seams are perpendicular to the floor, and it is comfortable. The amount you fold down is the amount you need to take off on the pattern piece, tapering it to nothing on the sides. I adjust all my patterns that way, and I actually make that alteration to purchased skirts. Msg me on Facebook with questions Judy Uplinger Brannon.


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